Bumpy roads, collapsed bridges, and other ring road tales...

So, I was set to leave for the big city of Douala on the morning of Saturday August 8th. As per usual, I jogged over to the bus station to buy my ticket... but... ugh oh... right away I could tell there was something strange going on. The gates were half closed... people were everywhere... I mean, it’s usually chaotic there, but it was even more chaotic than usual... people were missing luggage... angry and confused faces were storming around... so, I tried to listen in to the people speaking pidgin... and noticed the ticket wickets weren’t even open!

Turns out... a bridge, on the only major road in and out of Bamenda collapsed with all the rains we’ve had, so unless I planned to swim across the river... I wasn’t going anywhere. For a few days, no buses could leave Bamenda. Eventually, they started going, but you had to taxi to the bridge, trek through the woods about 3km, cross the river, and hopefully get on a bus on the other side. It all sounded a little sketchy to me, so I just stayed home. Spent some time with neighbours and watched a lot of movies. I even contemplated going back to work out of boredom (but didn’t!) until finally... a temporary solution was found and my friends from Yaounde were able to drive here for our second week plan. Yeah!!!

Julie, Tom, their baby Mia, and Nina arrived on the Friday, thus, beginning our adventures through the North-West Region. I think I was sooooo excited to have visitors... that entire day, I cleaned my house and cooked sooooo much food!!! You see, life in Bamenda can be a little dull. One must be creative and I think I’ve at least become a better cook with all this time on my hands.

After a day in Bamenda, we hit the road... on our way to Mount Oku, at 3,000 metres, it’s the second highest mountain in the region. However, we reached the road to Oku and found it to be rather bumpy and muddy... and since we did have a baby with us, decided it better to turn back for the day. So, we returned to the beautiful town of Belo and stayed with our fellow VSOer, Amelita. Belo, thanks to the Belo Rural Development Program and its volunteers, is home to the first “public walk” in Cameroon. It's a pleasant trail, touring the village, with various sights, farms, and waterfalls to admire. It even has sign posts to point you in the right direction! So, we enjoyed that, and just relaxing, staring out over the cliffs and mountains, covered in green. The only disruption was the odd gunshot throughout the evening, as there were some celebrations going on close by.

No matter where you are in Africa... there is always someone a few feet away... taking a pee break on the road in the middle of the forest... more tricky than you might think... there’s always someone around the corner, behind the bush, or walking down the road. The people live off the land... they walk far distances to work on their farms... they are everywhere... so you know you are never alone. It’s actually quite amazing; we never fretted... if a vehicle full of white people, such as ourselves, were to suddenly be caught in the mud, there would be fifteen people ready to push us out in seconds! Luckily we didn’t get stuck.

The best parts of travelling are all those random things you don’t plan for, particularly in Africa, one must be open and flexible... and you never know what amazing adventures might cross your path. Thanks to our great connections, we discovered a short-cut road that was incredibly beautiful overlooking the valley and took us up and up and up... all the way to the village of Babungo... and through the beautiful Ndawara tea estate. We visited some friends and were graciously offered some Indian snacks, a tour of the factory, and a visit to the tea farm... ostriches and peacocks included. Seeing all the giant, machinery and how the tea is collected and processed and packaged was rather interesting. So much hard work, one major operation! It is a different life in those hills. There are hundreds of workers... picking tea leaves each day, three leaves and a bud produces the greatest taste! The views over the valley, the fresh, cool air, and the calm lifestyle of the estate’s village provided a refreshing atmosphere.

We settled at another VSO friend’s place in Babungo... where we spent the next couple days relaxing under the sun, taking long walks up the hills, admiring the greenery... and visiting our neighbours. We also visited Mount Oku, covered in mist and deep forest, the town of Oku, and Kumbo, and Ndop. By the time we made it back to Babungo... we didn’t want to be in the vehicle anymore... although it’s interesting and beautiful to explore the countryside... it’s a long time in the car over those bumps and mud. It was however, notably different from city life, being in the village allows you to really enjoy the calm and quiet and friendly neighbours.

And then, after a special holiday, with a final evening at my place in Bamenda and a quick stop at the food market for that fresh, north-west cauliflower, broccoli, zucchini, and green peas... my travel companions were on the road again... back to Yaounde... and my little house felt suddenly quite quiet and empty.

RAIN

Welcome to the rainy season in Cameroon! Your laundry will not be dry until October. Such rain! At the start of the rainy season (back in April), there would be the odd, intense monsoon that would sweep through the region in minutes, and dry up so quickly with the sun, you wouldn’t even have realized. People would usually just stop, take shelter wherever they were, and then carry on afterwards. But these days, it can pour buckets all day. It’s adding to the lush, green gardens, beautiful waterfalls, cool and fresh air, and even cleaning up the streets... but seriously, don’t go outside, unless you plan on swimming or slip n’ sliding in the mud! Mud... lots of it!

Love is in the air... weddings 1, 2, ... and 3?

A few weeks ago, my colleague got married... twice... and the third is still to come. First, there was the “Traditional” Wedding, then the Court Wedding... and one day... there will also be a Church Wedding. Getting married in Cameroon is quite the affair!!!

On the day of the Traditional Wedding, I was told to meet my colleagues at 3:30PM, so... I decided to show up at 4:15PM... and I was the first to arrive! I waited until 5:00PM when a few people started showing up and we made our way to the bride’s family home. There, I must say... it was a strange and unique experience. We sat in rows... inside and outside... really not saying much... while the groom and his various representatives met with the bride’s family in closed quarters. I really wish I could have seen what was going on in there. Basically, they were negotiating the bride’s price. Poor him, he was rather stressed, as it appeared as though they were not agreeable for quite some time... he even had to ask to borrow some cash as he felt he was running low! He would come in and out, a bit stressed... and I never really knew exactly what was going on. Top Secret. This went on for hours. Until finally at 9:00PM, we were actually offered drinks. I found the whole ceremony strange because, unlike most African celebrations, there was no music, dancing, drumming, or even speeches... and they really like speeches... no talking... we just waited. At one point, they came out and the groom gave a chicken to the bride’s family. And the bride was poored some palm wine and she had to drink from it and search the room for her groom and offer him a drink... then, he drank from the glass (well, it was actually a cow’s horn) and then I think they were married! The food came at 9:30PM... and after a long day, I scooted out early... at 10:00PM, while others were still arriving (for the food!)... just sitting and looking at the happy, yet rather tired couple, who had been busily preparing for the day.

Onto the Court Wedding... that day... I was more prepared... I even came with reading material. I was told it would begin at 9:00AM... and although my father would say “better to be early than late”... in the Cameroonian context perhaps we can make an exception? I decided to arrive at 10:30AM instead. I got through half my magazine, by the time the ceremonies began at 11:30AM! And, just when you think, they’ll be married... again... they had to wait for fifteen other couples to say their vows before them... after the Mayor gave a good, long speech about the meaning of marriage... in pidgin, of course. They were the last couple to wedd, but the best! Interesting... before saying their vows... they were asked questions like: “will you have separate or joint property?”, “will this marriage be monogamous or polygamous?”, the women were encouraged to bear many children... and then they would repeat their vows, raise their hands, and put on their rings. Afterwards... we went back to their house for food and speeches and celebrations... again. Can’t wait for the church wedding!

Congrats Eric and Gwen!